Ford claims that the top-spec 7.2-kW system can power a plasma cutter, TiG welder, chop saw, air compressor, angle grinder, and work light, simultaneously. F-150s with conventional non-hybrid drivetrains get a 2.0-kW system, while hybrid trucks get upgraded to 2.4 kW or, optionally, a massive 7.2 kW of power, made possible by the hybrid's 48-volt lithium-ion battery pack. Three different onboard generator systems are available. So basically, we are providing like five times more than that," Nigar Sultana, the engineer in charge of Pro Power Onboard, said. "Right now, the traditional outlets provide 150 or 400 watts of power. All of this I've written is for informational purposes only and does not constitute advice for anyone's particular situation.To make that happen, Ford needed to provide a lot more power than a normal 12-volt battery system can spare. Anyone not comfortable with this activity should seek out a professional. I have a lot of experience due to my occupation as a licensed power engineer, and so I felt comfortable advising him in his particular scenario. Lastly, you need to have a throwover switch to prevent powering the trailer from more than one source (and possibly backfeeding to a dead grid which is very dangerous to line crews). Refer to the appropriate NEC ampacity table for your installation. This includes ALL secondary wiring until the next protective device. Make sure you know the secondary wire gauge, material type, and insulation rating. Further, the secondary side of the transformer needs to have a fuse rated at 1.25 transformer FLA (or next highest standard NEC rating) OR lower than the secondary wiring ampacity, whichever is lower. Incorrect bonding of the neutral (>1 or <1 connections) will cause a dangerous scenario. All that to say: ***EVALUATE HOW YOUR NEUTRAL IS BONDED TO GROUND*** if you are going to be adding a secondary source (tertiary in my friend's case). For his trailer, it has a switched neutral bonding jumper (prefers the off-trailer power's ground, but will swap to trailer ground if one is not detected) and so there was no need for an additional neutral bonding jumper. I would imagine in most cases that the existing neutral bonding jumper in the trailer will be fine. With a transformer, you've now got a separately-derived system and so you need to evaluate how your neutral secondary will be bonded to ground. Note that the truck's ground should NOT be passed to the trailer in this setup. Some safety items to share to anyone who attempts this: He does state the transformer gets a bit warm, I recommended he return it and purchase a 3kVA unit, but I don't think he'll have any issues outside of shorter lifespan. He's run the setup now at home and at the campground with success. He sent your article as the furthest he had gotten in his research and I have to say you've got a pretty good article written here, it was very helpful and we were able to come up with a solution to his problem using your article as a starting point.Īfter researching myself and talking it through with him, he ended up buying a 2kVA 1:1 isolation transformer and connected the leads to the Line and Neutral of the truck. His trailer also its own DC system with a battery/charger/inverter/solar panels(?). He pulls a trailer with his and wanted the AC unit to be able to run off the truck. I have a friend with an F-150 Tremor 2kW Pro Power Onboard generator who asked for my advice.
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